East Mainland of Orkney

The Orkney Mainland is divided between Kirkwall and Scapa into two sectors, East and West Mainland. The East Mainland, contains the parishes of Holm (pronounced locally as "Ham"), St Andrews and Deerness. St Andrews itself is divided into two districts, Tankerness and Toab, whilst Holm also includes the small island of Lamb Holm (pronounced "Home").

The area stretches twelve miles east from Kirkwall to Skaill in Deerness and ten miles south from Rerwick Head in Tankerness to Rose Ness in Holm. Comparatively low lying, it is almost entirely covered with glacial deposits. Here is good, though heavy, farmland which supports many of Orkney's beef herds.

Much land reclamation took place within the last century and the higher ground was peat-covered until quite recently; even today, traces of heather can be seen on roadside edges The tranquil beauty of nature is evident all around and although you'll find few archaeological sites in the area, modern historic monuments such as the famous Churchill Causeways and the Italian Chapel assure the area is high on everyone's visiting list. You can tour the area in a circular route, with a mileage of some thirty-seven miles, and within this trail you'll find several interesting shore walks. Superb views of Orkney's North Isles can be seen from Tankerness and Deemess, and from Holm you can easy see the Scottish Mainland on a clear day. The East Mainland is an area everyone from the specialist to the downright curious will enjoy to visit.

1. Grimsetter Airport - Now titled "Kirkwall Airport", Grimsetter serves all internal and external air services. During World War II the Navy's Barracuda torpedo bombers departed from here to fly sweeps along the Norwegian coast in 1944-45. Nearby is Wideford Farm from where Captain Fresson flew on 30th May 1934 to establish the first internal airmail service in Britain. Flights leave daily to Shetland and the Scottish mainland.

2. Twin Lochs of Weethick - Due north, on the west side of the Tankerness peninsula, lie the twin lochs of Weethick, both brackish and both impounded by a double ayre or shingle bar-the only example of its kind in Orkney. Nousts, where boats were hauled out when not in use, are found along the northern bank of the outer lagoon-evidence of its use as a harbour, perhaps as far back as Viking times.

3. Loch of Tankerness - Most of the farms in the vicinity of the loch were established when the sea was the main form of transport. The loch occupies a central position among fertile land and Curlews, Lapwings and Oystercatchers can be seen in this area, where they breed and feed.

4. Rerwick Head - Remains of World War II coastal defence installations, guarding the channel between Tankerness and Shapinsay, can be seen on this headland.

5. Mill Sands - These beaches are good places for collecting cockles and razor fish (known locally as "spoots") at very low spring tides. During spring and autumn the bay is frequented by Redshank, Turnstone and sometimes Bar-tailed Godwit; Shelduck spend the summer here, breeding in nearby rabbit-holes.

6. Sheila Fleet Jewellery - Sheila Fleet, an Orcadian designer and producer of silver and gold jewellery, has a workshop and giftshop in Tankerness. Visitors are welcome.  

7. Dingieshowe Beach - The road runs over a sandy isthmus which connects Deerness to the Mainland of Orkney. An old defensive structure, the broch mound, is strategically sited amongst the dunes on the south side taking its name from the Old Norse for "parliament mount".

8. Point of Ayre - An example of Lower Eday Sandstone.

9. The Gloup - A dramatic collapsed sea-cave separated from the sea by a land bridge about 80 yards wide. It is approximately 40 yards long and 80 feet deep. Gloup comes from the Old Norse "gluppa" -a chasm- the local name for a blow hole. The Gloup is a 200 yard walk from the car park (complete with interpretation centre and toilets) though it is unfenced and great care is required. It is possible to navigate and enter the Gloup in a small boat from the sea. Details of boat hire are available at the tourist offices.

10. Brough of Deerness - Accessible only by a narrow and dangerous cliff track, northwards from the Gloup and almost cut off by the sea at high tide, the Brough of Deerness is the site of an early Christian Monastery of the Celtic Church. Here hermit monks lived simple lives in solitude with nature. The remains of their chapel can still be seen.  Archaeologists held an excavation on the site in summer 2008 as there is so little known about the chapel.

11. Mull Head Nature Reserve - An area of over 200 acres of coastal grassland, heath and sea cliff providing opportunity for walking, bird-watching and nature study. A comprehensive path network stretches from the Covenanters Memorial on the North coast to the Gloup on the west coast; circular walks of between 4 and 8 km are signposted from the Gloup Car Park. Features of interest on the reserve include the archaeological remains of a Norse settlement and church on the Brough of Deerness and sea cliffs, home to many seabirds.

12. Copinsay - A wedge shaped island with a lighthouse perched on 300 feet high vertical cliffs facing the North Sea. The lighthouse was first lit in 1915. To the north is the small steep "Horse of Copinsay". To the west of the main island are Corn Holm, Black Holm (with its volcanic rock) and Ward Holm. This group of islands is now the James Fisher Memorial Reserve, owned by The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. These islands are the nesting sites of some 10,000 pairs of Guillemots and Kittiwakes on their mile long stretch of cliffs. Copinsay can be reached by boat - please ask at a tourist office for details.

13. St Ninians Church and Churchyard - The Deerness War Memorial can be found within this complex and also a unique Norse Hogg-backed gravestone.

14. Covenanters Memorial - A slender monument erected in 1888 marking the area where about two hundred Covenanters, made prisoner at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge, were ship-wrecked on the "Crown" in 1697. They were being transported to the American Colonies. There is a footpath from the parking area.

15. Churchill Barriers - These four causeways were built after the sinking of the HMS Royal Oak while it lay at harbour in Scapa Flow in October 1939. Barrier No 1 is over 2,000 feet (610 metres) in length. The maximum depth below the highest tide level is 59 feet (18 metres) After the war, a road was built on top of the barriers allowing the south isles of Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay to become part of the main roadway system of Orkney. The area is popular with divers, sea-anglers and also have some nice beaches.

16. Lamb Holm - Small island off Holm boasting the first Churchill Barrier, the Italian Chapel and now the Orkney Wine Company.

17. 

    Italian Chapel - Near St Mary's, on the tiny island of Lamb Holm (connected to the Mainland by the first of the Churchill Barriers) is a unique memorial to 550 Italian Prisoners of War where they were interned in the 1940s. This beautiful little chapel was converted internally from two corrugated iron nissan huts. Open daylight hours daily and free to visit. t: (01856) 781268.

18. St Mary's Village - A picturesque little village with an esplanade facing south which developed during the herring fishing days. St Mary's is the venue for a variety of water based sports and has an annual regatta in July. It is also the home of the Strond Gallery. t: (01856) 781700.

19. HMS "Royal Oak" Marker Buoy - In Scapa Flow, almost hidden by the dark moorland across the valley of Deepdale is the green marker buoy for HMS "Royal Oak". Torpedoed with the loss of over 800 lives in 1939, the ship is protected from disturbance, being scheduled as a War Grave. A memorial to HMS "Royal Oak" can be found in St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.

20. Minehowe - This Iron Age chamber was discovered in 1946, re-excavated in 2000 and featured on the TV programme 'Time Team'.  It is a mysterious structure comprising of twenty-nine underground steps and two side chambers.  The site is open to the public and finds and displays are on site. t: (01856) 01856 861209.
    

West Mainland

The West Mainland of Orkney can offer the visitor a richness and variety of attractions that few other places can match. Here you will find the parishes of Birsay, Evie, Firth, Harray, Orphir, Rendall, Sandwick and Stenness and the villages of Dounby and Finstown.

Running through the rich farm land, there is also hill and moorland scenery to compare favourably with anywhere else in Britain. Here, there is a wide variety of plant and birdlife of interest to naturalists and ornithologists from many parts of the world. Spectacular cliff scenery along the Atlantic coastline, again full of birdlife during the summer months, contrasts with sheltered sandy bays -ideal for artists, photographers, walkers and sightseers. Well-preserved prehistoric settlements provide a stark reminder that early settlers of these islands lived in circumstances differing greatly from today's inhabitants who live in very up-to-date dwellings. The West Mainland also contains some of the best-known wild brown trout fishing lochs in Northern Scotland.

1. Brough of Birsay – Cross the causeway at low tide to this tidal island where you will find the remains of both Pictish and Norse settlements, including St. Peter's Kirk.  A walk to the far side of the Brough brings you to the lighthouse and cliff face.  This is a good place for watching migratory birds and a chance to see puffins (May-July). Keep your eyes peeled for whales off the shore and for the popular Groatie Buckies (cowrie shells).  Get tide times from the Visitor Information Centre.

2. St Magnus Church - The present church was built in 1760 and replaced and earlier church that had stood there from 1664.  It is believed that this was also the site of the 1064 church where St. Magnus was interred after being murdered by his cousin Haakon in 1116.  His remains are now housed in St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.  In summer the Church is open daily, but in winter the key is available from the nearby shop, Palace Stores.

3. Earl's Palace - The ruins are in the centre of The Palace village of Birsay and are kept by Historic Scotland.  The palace was built in the late 16th century by 'Black Patie' - the unpopular Earl Robert Stewart.  The site is open all year and free to visit.   

4. Boardhouse Mill - The last surviving example of a working watermill in Orkney.  The mill still produces traditional beremeal and the mill is open to visitors from May-September each year.  Opening hours are 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.  Free entry/donation.
   

5. Stone o' Quoybune - A standing stone which folk-lore says went to the loch every New Year's - morning for a drink - not a bad idea, even today!

6. Marwick Head - Walk from the car park up to the stone-built memorial commemorating the loss of HMS Hampshire, which sank here in mysterious circumstances with the loss of all but 12 men, including Lord Kitchener of Khartoum, Minister of War, reputed to be on a secret mission to Russia. This is a great spot for birdwatching during the breeding months and the best place in the mainland for sighting puffins.

7. Bay of Skaill – Large sandy beach below Skara Brae.  Guaranteed to be busy with sandcastle builders and dog walkers on a nice summer day, but otherwise you could be lucky enough to have it to yourself.

8. Skara Brae – This is an incredibly well preserved stone village containing an intricate maze of dwellings, with stone beds, lintels and cupboards all intact, and dates back some 5,000 years. The site was revealed in 1850 by a violent storm and is now one of the most famous Neolithic sites in Northern Europe.  The site has an excellent visitor centre with a shop and cafe and is open daily.  

9. Hole o' Rowe – Visible from the Bay of Skaill, the Hole o' Row is a cave worn right through the headland, which causes the sea to break through the hole in dramatic style in rough weather.

10. St Peter’s Kirk  -Situated at the north end of the Bay of Skaill is St. Peter's Kirk, dating back to 1837.  Visitors are welcome April - October, 10am- 6pm.

11. Orkney Brewery – Located at the old school in Quoyloo, the brewery makes popular Orkney ales including the award wining Dark Island. The brewery plan to open a new visitor centre for 2010.  

12. Yesnaby - Yesnaby offers some spectacular scenery of cliffs, stacks (including the Castle of Yesnaby) and geos.  Also to be found here is the rare plant species of Primula Scotica, which only exists in the most northern parts of Scotland.

13. Skipi Geo and Sandgeo - Recently restored fishermen's huts are situated along these coastlines.

14. Longaglebe Geo - A deep gorge eroded by the sea, 200 metres inwards.

15. Kirbuster Farm Museum - A well-kept example of an early 19th century farmhouse and steading, with Orkney's last peat-fired central hearth, stone neuk beds and collection of farm utensils of yesteryear.  The museum is free to visit and is open March - October. Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm, 2-5pm. Sun 12-5pm. t (01856) 771268.

16. Dounby - A village settlement where the parishes of Birsay, Harray and Sandwick meet.  Dounby has several shops and plenty of other services to offer.

17. Burgar Hill - Site of several aero generators, the largest with a diameter of 50 metres and a capacity of three megawatts.

18. The Roost - Often wild strait separating Evie from the island of Eynhallow.

19. Mill of Harray - 19th century meal mill which, before 1875, had no drying kiln; farmers had to dry their own oats and barley before taking it to be milled.

20. Click Mill - Another 19th century mill thats name comes from its operation sounds.  Its style is derived from the earlier Norse mills and at one time it would have produced enough flour for all of Dounby.  The mill is free to visit and open all year round. 

21. Corrigall Farm Museum - The farm offers the visitor an insight into Orkney farming from as early as the 18th century at this farmstead.  The site includes a peat fire, livestock, a range of horse powered instruments, a shop and toilets.  Free to visit and open March-October, Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm, 2-5pm and Sun 12-5pm. t: (01856) 771411.

22. Quoyer Viewpoint - An ideal stopping place down at the loch for panoramic views of the Harray and Stenness Lochs, the Ring of Brodgar and the Hills of Hoy in the distance.

23. Aikerness Beach - Probably the longest stretch of sandy beach in the West Mainland -perfect for bathing, picnics or hunting for shells, especially Groatie Buckies.

24. Broch of Gurness - The most impressive and best surviving example of a broch in the Orkney mainland.  The broch stands in the centre of a small stone village surrounded by houses and ramparts.  It was firstly home to the Picts in the 1st century BC and was later occupied by the Vikings till around the 9th century.  Visitors are welcome in the summer months to a charge.  Open dails April-September 9.30am-12.30pm, 1.30-5pm.  October Sat-Wed 9.30am-4.30pm. t: (01856) 751414.  www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.

25. Tingwall Ferry Terminal - Provides a dail ferry link with Rousay, Egilsay and Wyre. There is also evidence of another broch here.

26. Rendall Doocot - This is a 17th century pigeon home situated at the Hall of Rendall.  This recently restored doocot is the only one of its kind in Orkney.

27. Finstown - The village in the Parish of Firth is named after the Irish soldier David Phin, who came to Orkney in 1811 after the Napoleonic Wars.  He opened an inn named the Toddy Hole, which is the present day Pomona Inn.  It is still the only pub in the village which is now the Orkney mainlan's third largest settlement after Kirkwall and Stromness.

28. Old Mill - No longer in use, but the machinery dating from the early 19th century is still there, including the overshot wheel which provided the power.  The mill is currently being renovated.

29. Langalour - Notable 19th century farm, complete with neuk beds - originally a longhouse, shared by family and animals.

30. Ingashowe Broch - Human remains and red deer bones were found when it was excavated. Inhabited 500-60 BC.

31. Rennibister Earth House – Located below Wideford Hill, remains of a Neolithic House dating from 3900BC, similar to Knap of Howar on Papay.

32. Brig o' Waithe – The Brig crosses the mouth of the Loch of Stenness at The Bush and is a favourite sea trout fishing location.  It is also the site of the first civilian deathin Britain during the Second World War when it was bombed by a German plane.

33. Unstan Cairn Chambered tomb – this cairn in located beside the Stenness Loch and was excavated in 1884.  The chamber is divided by large flagstone in which crouched skeletons were found.  The tomb lends its name to Unstan Ware- a variety of Neolithic pottery as so much of it was found here during excavation.  The pottery has also been found at various other archaeological sites in Orkney.

34. Ring of Brodgar – One of the finest stone circles in the world. The stone ring was built in a true circle, 104 metres wide and originally contained sixty megaliths; today only twenty-seven of these stones remain.  Part of Orkney's World Heritage Site, they have become an iconic part of Orkney's identity.  Free walks around the site are provided by Historic Scotland rangers.

35. Barnhouse Village - Situated on the shore of Harray Loch, and accessed from the Standing Stones of Stenness, Barnhouse is a stone age village.  It is similar to Skara Brae, but has much less of the structure surviving.  Barnhouse is an open site which is free to visit.

36. Standing Stones of Stenness - One of the most famous sites in Orkney, the stones make up a a small circle dating from the third millennium BC.  It originally consisted of twelve stones, and The Watchstone and Barnhouse stone are also nearby.

37. Tormiston Mill - Refurbished mill where tickets for Maeshowe are purchased.  The mill is also home to a good shop. Unfortunately buses, coaches and campervans cannot park at the mill.

38. Maeshowe - The finest chambered tomb in Western Europe. Built before 2700 BC, it was raided by the Vikings in the mid-12th century and plundered of its 'treasures'.  Maeshowe is interesting because of the various runic inscriptions carved into the walls.  This is one of the best known collections and includes the Maeshowe Dragon - a very well known Orkney icon.  During the winter solstice every year the sun shines down the long entrance passage and lights up the back wall.

39. Buckle's Toor - Small tower built last century by a local lad while he herded sheep on the hillside.

40. Binscarth – Binscarth Wood is Orkney’s largest woodland area. There is a lovely walk through the woods and past Wasdale loch. 

41. Cuween Chambered Cairn - Built around 2800-2000 BC. When it was entered in 1901, twenty-four dog skulls were found, thought to be tribal emblems of the stone-age builders.

42. Site of Battle of Summerdale - Where the last pitched battle in Orkney was fought in 1528. The army of King James V, led by the Earl of Caithness, was defeated by the islanders who were rebelling against taxes and feudalism.

43. Ward Hill - The highest point on the Orkney mainland - 268 metres. Great views of Scapa Flow and Hoy as well as Stromness and the West Mainland.

44. Houton - This is the departure point of the car ferry to Hoy (Lyness) and Flotta.

45. St Nicholas Round Kirk and Orkneyinga Saga Centre – The centre in the Orphir church yard tells the story of the Norse Earls of Orkney by way of interpretation boards and an audiovisual display.  It is free to visit and open daily.  The Orphir Round Kirk was built in the late 11th or early 12th century and is the only remains of a circular church in Scotland.  It is believed to have been built by Earl Haakon. There is also a nice walk here along the shore, with good views out to Flotta and Hoy.

46. Earl's Bu - The remains of a Norse farmstead, at one time home to some of the Norse Earls who were so important in Orkney's history.

47. Waulkmill - A beautiful sheltered shallow inlet with stunning sandy beach. This beach was voted Orkney best Kept Beach in 2006. Toilet facilities available above the beach.  Please note that there are steps down to the beach so it may not be suitable for buggies and wheelchairs